Flip a Boat Beginner Guide

Redeem a code and claim free starters

Open the settings icon in the bottom-left corner and redeem an active code for free Cash — the launch code awards 10,000 Cash. That cushion becomes your repair reserve: Cash held back for parts, not the hull itself, so a bad first purchase does not leave you stuck mid-repair.

If the game offers a free boat claim on join, take it. A free hull lets you learn Mechanic Mode without risking your entire Cash stack on day one. Friend-invite bonuses can add more Cash later, but they are optional — the code plus a finishable Junkyard wreck is enough to start.

Spawn the truck and claim a nearby plot

Spawn your truck, then drive straight to the Junkyard so you can see live listings before you commit. When you claim a plot, prefer one close to the Junkyard — every later trip for parts or a new wreck is shorter, and that travel time adds up across a session.

Visit the Junkyard before buying anything

Every listing shows a price, a condition percentage, a rarity tag, an estimated parts cost, and often a level requirement. Walk the lot and compare before committing — a cheap hull with a huge parts bill can cost more overall than a pricier one that is already in decent condition, and a listing above your level is simply locked until you flip more boats.

Hauling a wreck home

Once a boat is yours, either Send to Storage or trailer it behind your truck. Storage is usually cleaner for your first few flips — you skip attaching and detaching the trailer every run. If you do haul, attach carefully at the Junkyard and drive steadily to your plot so a hard clip does not knock the boat loose mid-route. Full tow technique lives in the truck & trailer guide.

Fixing a boat in Mechanic Mode

At your plot, open the workshop computer, choose Manage → Edit Boat → Mechanic, and drag the motor next to the workbench. Strip every rusty part — cover, anti-ventilation plate, spark plugs, propeller, filters, and anything else flagged — before installing the replacements you bought at South Marine.

On PC, Z helps unload spark plugs in bulk and F installs parts once they are in place. Leave a little space between the motor and the anti-ventilation plate while you work so the two pieces do not snap together early. The condition bar only climbs when every rusty piece is gone, so work the bay methodically rather than calling it "close enough."

Repairs come before heavy cosmetics

Mechanical work usually carries most of the condition bar; paint and material changes finish the last stretch to 100%. Do every required part swap first, then apply a simple material if the meter still needs it — do not dump Cash into flashy cosmetics before the engine bay is clean. Cosmetics beyond what condition needs eat margin on a boat you plan to sell.

What to check at the Junkyard

Add the purchase price to the parts cost, then compare that total against the boat's restored sale value before you commit. Confirm you meet the level gate. If the margin is razor-thin or the parts bill alone would empty your repair reserve, walk away — a first flip needs an obvious profit, not a gamble.

Buying parts at South Marine

South Marine splits stock into Mechanical and Customization tabs — stay on Mechanical for your first few flips. Parts are priced individually (many small components sit in the low hundreds of Cash). Note every flagged part on the motor before you leave the plot so you can buy a full set in one trip. Spark plugs often need two (some motors need three) — under-buying plugs is the classic reason a "finished" boat still sits below 100%.

Start at 11ft, not bigger

Starter-tier hulls have the lowest parts bills and the fastest repair times, which means faster feedback on whether your buying instincts work. Reinvest each sale into a slightly bigger project rather than jumping straight to a mid-size or 40-foot console — a huge hull with a huge parts bill is exactly how a repair reserve disappears on flip number one. Browse sizes later on the all boats.